SYLHET

Nestled in the picturesque Surma Valley amidst scenic tea plantations and lush green tropical forests, greater Sylhet is a prime attraction for all tourists visiting Bangladesh. Laying between the Khasia and the Jaintia hills on the north, and the Tripura hills on the south, Sylhet breaks the monotony of the flatness of this land by a multitude of terraced tea gardens, rolling countryside and the exotic flora and fauna. Here the thick tropical forests abound with many species of wildlife, spread their aroma around the typical hearth and homes of the Mainpuri Tribal maidens famous for their dance.

The Sylhet valley is formed by a beautiful, winding pair of rivers named the Surma and the Kushiara both of which are fed by innumerable hill streams from the north and the south. The valley has good number of haors which are big natural depressions. During winter these haors are vast stretches of green land, but in the rainy season they turn into turbulent seas.

These haors provide a sanctuary to the millions of migratory birds who fly from Siberia across the Himalayas to avoid the severe cold there. Sylhet has also a very interesting and rich hilstory, Before the conquest by the Muslims, it was ruled by local chieftains. In 1303, the great Saint Hazrat Shah Jalal came to Sylhet from Delhi with a band of 360 disciples to preach islam and defeated the then Raja Gour Gobinda. Sylhet thus became a district of saints, shrines and daring but virile people. Its rich potentialities became easily attractive and the 18th century Englishmen made their fortune in tea plantation.

About 80 km. from Sylhet town connected by road and rail, Srimangal, which is known as the tea capital of Bangladesh, is the actual tea centre of the area. For miles and miles around, the visitor can see the tea gardens spread like a green carpet over the plain land or on the sloping hills. A visit to the tea plantation in Sylhet is a memorable experience. Sylhet, the tea granary of Bangladesh, not only has over 150 tea gardens but also proudly possesses three largest tea gardens in the world both in area and production.

The Shrine of Hazrat Shah Jalal : Among the several places of historical interest in Sylhet town is the shrine of Saint Hazrat Shah Jalal. Even today, more than six hundred years after his death, the shrine is visited by innumerable devotees of every caste and creed, who make the journey from far away places. Legend says, the great saint who came from Delhi to preach Islam and defeated the then Hindu Raja (king) Gour Gobinda, transformed the witchcraft followers of the Raja into catfishes which are still alive in the tank adjacent to the shrine Swords, the holy Quran and the robes of the holy saint are still preserved in the shrine.

Hairpur Gas Field and Other Spots : Twentytwo kilometers from Sylhet town is the Haripur Gas Field and at 35 km. point is the Jaintiapur's Rajbari.

Only 5 km. from Jaintiapur is Jaflong, a scenic spot amidst tea gardens. At about 35 km. north-west of Sylhet town, linked by rail, road and river is Chhatak, the seat of Assam Bengal Cement Factory, Chhatak is famous for orange garden.

Tamabil-Jaflong : Situated amidst splendid panorama, Tamabil is a border outpost on Sylhet-Shilong Road about 55 km. away from Sylhet town. Besides enchanting views of the area one can also have a glimpse of the waterfalls across the border from Tamabil. Jaflong is also a scenic spot nearby amidst tea gardens and rate beauty of rolling stones from hills.

Manipuri Dance : An interesting feature of Sylhet region is the aboriginal tribes such as the Tipperas, the Monipuris, Khasis and Garos who still live in their primitive ways in the hills, practising their age-old rites, rituals, customs and traditions. During festivals such as, Rash Leela (Full-moon night in February) and Doljatra, the attractive young girls dressed in colorful robes, dance with the male members of their choice & love. The Monipuris perform their famous dance, based on allegorical love themes of the ancient mythology.

Handicrafts : Sylhet is well-known for its wide variety of exquiste handicrafts. Well-known Sylhet cane products such as chair, table, tea trays, flower vases, bags and the exquisitely designed fine Sital Pati (a kind of mattress having natural cooling effect) are colorful souvenirs.

For accommodation at Sylhet town, some reasonably good hotels are available. Rest-house accommodation at Srimangal and other places are also available for tourists.


Temple of Sri Chaitannya Dev : About 500 years old famous temple of Sri Chaitanya Dev is located at Dhaka Dakhin about 45 km south-east from Sylhet town. The place is revered from being the ancestral home of the famous Vaishnava saint. Yearly fair is organised on the fullmoon day of the Bangla month Falgun. Hundreds and thousands of devotees from home and abroad attend this colorful fair.

Shahi Edgah : Three kilometers to the north-east of the circuit house, the Shahi Eidgah was built on a hill by the Mughal Emperor Aurangazeb in the 17th century. It looks like a grade fort but is actually meant for Eid congreation-the two biggest Muslim festivals

Gour Gobinda Fort : The Murarichand Government College is situated in a beautiful surrounding on a hillttop. To the north-west of the college lie the remains of King Gour Govinda's Fort.

Jaintiapur : Situated 43 km. to the north of Sylhet town, on the Sylhet- Shillong road, Jaintiapur was the capital of an ancient kingdom which included the khasi and Jaintia Hills and plains of Jainta. Interesting ruins of this forgotten period lie scattered throughout Jaintiapur. A drive to Jaintiapur is an interesting and worthwhile experience

Srimongal : Srimongal is famous for the largest tea gardens of world covered by lush green carpet. One can have a look into the spectacular tea processing at Tea Research Institute. Bangladesh produces and exports a large quantity of high quality tea every year. Most of the tea estates are in Sremongol. It is called "The land of two leaves and a bud". It is also called camellia, green carpet or Tea Mountain. There are a lot of tea estates including the largest one in the world. The terraced tea garden, pineapple, rubber and lemon plantations from a beautiful landscape. It is known as the tea capital in Bangladesh. Just offer entering into the tea estates the nice smells and green beauty will lead you many kilometers away.

Lawacherra Rain forest is one of the important & well-reserved forests in Bangladesh. Here visitor may see gibbons swimming through the trees and birds like bee-eater owls parrot. It is a good habitant of Deer, leopard, wild chicken, squirrel, and python. Don't miss it especially if you are bird watcher. The terrain is hilly and vegetation is fairly thick. Only one rare Chloroform tree of Asia is here and a prime attraction of travel

Kasia & Manipuri is two important ethnic-tribe live here. Manipuri is famous for its rich culture especially for dancing, singing. They are also famous for their traditional weaving. You can buy their handicrafts exquisitely woven woolen. Shawls, Sharee, Napkin, bed-cover and some should a bags. It is known as colorful community. Kasia tribe is famous for their betel leaf cultivation. They make their villages high on hilltop in deep forest and so far from town. It is like " a Piece of paradise". Certainly it will please you.

Pineapple cultivation in numerable rows of Pineapple cultivation covering largest area is very amazing and fascinating. Largest quantity of pineapple grown here of Bangladesh. It is also sweetest and best quality. Pineapple is really a greatest offer of summer but now it is cultivated all the year round. So, you can enjoy the juicy summer fruit in any time coming to its real field. Just after entering into pineapple plantation. It can be highlight for you in Sremongol.

Madhabkunda surrounded by lush tea estates and full of waters lilies is a unique one. Magurchara ruined gas & Oil reserved field, which was blasted while digging 3 years ago and was burning an 500-feet height for more than 3 months. A lot of burnt trees now carrying the symbols of digester. Ever where a lot of rubber & lemon plantation form a beautiful landscape. And you can have a visit to Madhobkundo water fall

The Legends

Hazrat Shah Jalal (R)

Shah Jalal was a saint of Bengal and is the most celebrated personality of the region of Sylhet, Bangladesh. Shah Jalal commands great respect of Muslims of the Indian subcontinent and is regarded as a national hero by Bangladeshis. Shah Jalal's name is associated with the Muslim conquest of Sylhet, of which he is considered to be the main figure. He lies buried at Sylhet

Early life and education

Born Shaikh Makhdum Jalal ad-Deen bin Mohammed, he was later affectionately renamed Shaikh-ul-Mashaikh Hazrat Shah Jalal al-Mujarrad (the last name meaning "the bachelor", on account of his celibacy). Shah Jalal's date and place of birth is unclear. Various traditions, folklore and hostorical documents suggest different ideas. A number of scholars claim that he was born in 1271 in Konya, Turkey, and later moved to Yemen, either as a child or adult, while others contest he was born in Yemen. He was the son of a Turkish Muslim cleric, who was a contemporary of the famous Persian poet and Sufi saint, Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Rumi. He was educated and raised by his maternal uncle, Syed Ahmed Kabir, in Mecca. He excelled in his studies and became a Hafiz (one who has committed the Qur'an to memory) and was proficient in Islamic theology. He achieved Kamaliyat (spiritual perfection) after 30 years of study and meditation.

Travel to India

According to legend, his uncle, Sheikh Kabir, one day gave Shah Jalal a handful of earth (soil) and asked him to travel to Hindustan with the instruction that he should settle down at whichever place in Hindustan whose earth matched completely in smell and color to the earth he was given, and he should devote his life for the propagation and establishment of Islam there.

Shah Jalal journeyed eastward and reached India in c. 1300, where he met with many great scholars and mystics. He arrived at Ajmer, where he met the great Sufi mystic and scholar, Pir Khawaja Gharibnawaz Muinuddin Hasan Chisty, who is credited with the spread of Islam in India. In Delhi, he met with Nizam Uddin Aulia, another major Sufi mystic and scholar.

Conquest of Sylhet

Tradition goes that a Hindu king named Gaur Govinda ruled the Sylhet area, then predominantly Hindu. Sheikh Burhanuddin, a Muslim who lived in the territory under his control once sacrificed a cow to celebrate the birth of his son. A bird (kite) snatched a piece of flesh of the slaughtered cow and it fell from its beak on the house of a Brahmin Hindu, for whom cows were sacred. According to another tradition, the piece of flesh fell on the temple of the king himself, which he took as a great offence. At the order of the king, Burhanuddin's hands were said to have been cut off and his son killed. Burhanuddin went to the Sultan of Gaur, Shamsuddin Firuz Shah, to whom he submitted a prayer for justice. The Sultan accordingly sent an army under the command of his nephew Sikandar Khan Ghazi. He was, however,was stopped by rains and flood. The Sultan then ordered his Sipah Salar (armed forces chief) Nasiruddin to lead the war.

At this time, Shah Jalal (R) was requested by Nizam Uddin at the behest of sultan firoz shah to travel to Sylhet along with sikander khan gazi to rescue Sheikh Burhan Uddin. With his 360 followers, including his nephew Shah Paran, he reached Bengal and joined the Muslim army in the Sylhet campaign. Knowing that Shah Jalal was advancing towards Sylhet, Raja Gaur Govinda, the king, removed all ferry boats from the river Surma, thereby cutting off any means of crossing into Sylhet. Legend has it that Shah Jalal crossed the river Surma by sitting on a Jainamaz (prayer rug). Upon reaching the opposite bank, he ordered the Azan (call to prayer) to be sounded, at which the magnificent palace of Gaur Govinda shattered. With Shah Jalal's help, the Hindus were completely defeated and crushed by the Muslim Army.The superior fighting and combat skills helped the Muslim Army.

During the later stages of his life, Shah Jalal devoted himself to propagating Islam to the masses. Under his guidance, many thousands of Hindus and Buddhists converted to Islam. Shah Jalal become so renowned that even the world famous Ibn Battuta, whilst in Chittagong, was asked to change his plans and go to Sylhet to meet this great Awlia. On his way to Sylhet, Ibn Batuta was greeted by several of Shah Jalal (R.A)'s disciples who had come to assist him on his journey many days before he had arrived. Once in the presence of Shah Jalal (R.A), Ibn Batuta noted that Shah Jalal (R.A) was tall and lean, fair in complexion and lived by the masjed in a cave, where his only item of value was a goat from which he extracted milk, butter, and yogurt. He observed that the companions of the sheikh were foreign and known for their strength and bravery. He also mentions that many people would visit the sheikh and seek guidance. Shah Jalal (R.A) is therefore instrumental in the spread of Islam throughout north east India including Assam.

Shah Poran

Shah Paran (R) was a renowned Sufi saint of the Suhrawardiyya and Jalalia order. It is said that he was the son of a sister of Hazrat Shah Jalal (R) and was born in Hadramaut, Yemen. He was an accomplice of his uncle, Shah Jalal, with whom he arrived in India. In 1303 AD, He took part in the expedition of Sylhet which was led by Shah Jalal. After the conquest of Sylhet he established a khanqah at Khadim Nagar in Dakshingarh Pargana, about 7 km away from Sylhet town, where he started Sufi spiritual practices and activities. He played a significant role in propagating Islam and establishing Muslim rule in the Sylhet region.

It is unclear how and when he died, but he is buried near his khanqah. For centuries, large numbers of devotees have been visiting his tomb, a practice which continues even today. On the 4th, 5th and 6th day of Rabi-ul-Awal, the Urs of Hazrat Shah Paran (R) takes place. His grave is located in a high hillock and it is carefully preserved at a place which is built with bricks and surrounded by walls. On the northern side of the grave there is an old tree, the branches and branchlets of which are extended above the entire tomb. The name of the tree is 'Ashagachh' (a tree of hopes). From a close observation of the leaves of the tree, it appears that the tree has grown out of a mixture of the fig, mango and some other tree. People eat the seeds of the figs devotionally in the hope of getting rid of diseases. Mangoes are also eaten with utmost respect as Tabaruk. There is an ancient mosque by the side of the tomb. The mosque has been modernized in 1989-91. About 1500 devout Muslims in a body can now say their prayers there.

Adjacent to the main tomb complex of Shah Paran, found in the East of Sylhet, is another tomb visited by worshipers, that of Konya Shah. Legend has it that this follower of the great saints was neither man nor woman. There is a permanent exhibition of the life and times of this saint. Contemporary paintings and pictures featured at the tomb/exhibition depict a person most likely to be a eunuch. Though the original conquerors earned a prominent role in Islamic history, main stream Islam shuns the idea of worshiping saints and eunuchs.

M. A. G. Osmani

Muhammad Ataul Gani Osmani
Born: 1 September 1918 Sunamganj, Sylhet, British India (now part of Bangladesh)
Died: 16 February 1984
Nationality: Bangladeshi
Occupation: General and Supreme Commander of the Bangladesh Forces during Bangladesh Liberation War

Muhammad Ataul Gani Osmani, better known as Banga Bir General M.A.G. Osmani (1 September 1918 – 16 February 1984) was the Supreme Commander of the Mukti Bahini and Bangladesh Armed Forces during the Bangladesh Liberation War.

Education
Osmani was born in Sunamganj, Sylhet Division on 1 September 1918. He passed matriculation from Sylhet Government Pilot School. Later, he graduated in Aligarh Muslim University, India. He was a descendant of Nizamuddin Osmani of Dayamir, Sylhet.

Military Career
In 1939, Osmani started his military career as a Gentleman Cadet during the British Raj in the Indian Military Academy at Dehra Dun. Upon completion of training at the IMA, he was commissioned a Second Lieutenant in the Indian Army as an artillery officer in 1940, during World War II. He served in the Burma sector and won the distention of a battle field promoted to a Major in 1942. After the birth of India and Pakistan in 1947 following the departure of the British Rule, Osmani joined the Pakistan Army on 7 October 1947, and was soon promoted to Lieutenant Colonel. He served as an aide to the Chief of General Staff in 1949. In 1952, he served as commanding officer of the 9th battalion of the 14th Punjab Regiment, and later as additional commandant of the East Pakistan Rifles. After being promoted to Colonel in 1956, he was appointed and general staff officer of the army at the Army HQ. In 1958 Osmani held the post of deputy director of general staff and subsequently director of military operations. He retired from Pakistan Armed Forces on 16 February 1967. He was reinstated to active duty in the Bangladesh Forces during the Bangladesh Liberation War in April of 1971 and later promoted to the full rank of General during the 11-17th of July Bangladesh Sector Commanders Conference 1971. As such he was appointed C-in-C of all Bangladesh Forces during the duration of the war. He held the title of Commander-in-Chief until his retirement in April of 1972, when the Bangladesh Forces officially dissolved into four independent regular forces, the Bangladesh Army, the Bangladesh Navy, the Bangladesh Air Force and the Bangladesh Rifles

Entry into politics
After his retirement, Osmani entered the politics of East Pakistan. He joined the Sheikh Mujib-led Awami League in 1970. As a candidate from Awami League, he was elected a member of the Pakistan national assembly in the 1970 elections in Pakistan. After the commencement of Bangladesh Liberation War, Osmani became a member of the provisional government-in-exile.

Leadership during Bangladesh Liberation War
With the formation of Bangladesh government on 17 April 1971, retired Colonel Osmani was reinstated to active duty under the authority of Bangladesh government and appointed commander in chief of all Bangladesh Forces. During the historic Bangladesh Sector Commanders Conference 1971 he was promoted to General. Under his direct command, Osmani divided up the entire Bangladesh territory to 11 sectors. Each sector was under the command of a trained military officer with the title of Sector Commander. Each sector also had sub-sectors with sub sector commanders.

Post-independence activities
After the country's independence, Osmani retired from service 7 April 1972. He was then included in the cabinet of Sheikh Mujibur Rahman as Minister of Shipping, Inland Water Transport and Aviation. Osmani was elected a member of the national parliament in 1973, and was included in the new cabinet with charge of the ministries of Post, Telegraph and Telephone, Communication, Shipping, Inland Water Transport and Aviation.

He resigned from the cabinet in May 1974 after the introduction of one-party system of government through the Fourth Amendment to the constitution. Along with Barrister Mainul Hosein, both elected MPs, resigned from the Awami League protesting abolishing of democracy in Bangladesh by Sheikh Mujibur Rahman.

MAG Osmani was appointed an Adviser to the President in charge of Defense Affairs by Khondaker Mostaq Ahmed (then President and Law Minister currently) on 29 August 1975. But he resigned immediately after the killing of four national leaders inside the Dhaka Central Jail on 3 November.

Hason Raja

Hason Raja literally Hason the king, was a mystical poet and songwriter in Bengal, now Bangladesh. Born at the end of the 19th century 1854 to a traditional Zamindar or landowner family near Sunamganj, Sylhet, though his ancestral home is in Rampasha, Biswanath, Sylhet. Hason indulged himself in material pursuits in his youth. Later, he came to believe worldly pleasures are meaningless and wrote songs that have been described as some of the most thoughtful songs, touching the deepest emotions of the human mind.

Hason's father, Dewan Ali Raja (Choudhury), was a direct descendant of the Hindu king Raja Birendra Singhdev, (who later converted to Islam and became known as Babu Khan). Hason's mother was Ali Raja's second wife, Huramat Jahan Begum. As befitted Hason's ancestry, he was tall, handsome and charming, with a regal manner and dress sense.

Hason's elder half-brother, Ubeydur Raja, died when Hason was a teenager. The death of Ali Raja, about 40 days later, meant Hason became responsible for overseeing his father's vast property at an early age. Despite his youth when taking on this responsibility, he proved to be a very successful Zamindar, acquiring acres of land and many properties in Sylhet. Yet, despite his financially privileged upbringing, Hason is credited with setting up a number of local schools and religious organizations, and is said to have frequently provided for the poor and needy of his community.

Hason Raja had four sons, Khan Bahadur Dewan Ganiur Raja, Hasinur Raja, Khan Bahadur Dewan Eklimur Raja Chowdhury (Kabbo Bisharod) and Aftabur Raja. Dewan Eklimur Raja ofllowed in his footsteps and also wrote poetry and songs; he was also known as the architect of modern poetry of Sylhet area. Dewan Hason Raja donated one third of his property as Waqf in 1918 for the well being of the people and offspring's of his beloved son Eklimur Raja.

Hason Raja's songs are in the folk tradition of Bengal that seeks the ultimate truth beyond the material world. They include songs such as 'Lokey bole', published in his book of songs, Hason Udas. In recent times, they have been modernized and are very popular in both Bangladesh and West Bengal. Many book and musical CDs has been published so far on great mystic poet Hason Raja.

Hason Raja died in 1922, years before his contribution to the poetry of Bengal was mentioned in lectures at Oxford University by Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore.

Hason Raja is also known as Dewan Hasan Raja. A beautiful museum namely, Museum of Rajas' has been established in his ancestral home at Raja - Kunjo, Sylhet, Bangladesh; where historical exhibits of Hason Raja, Eklimur Raja, Talibur Raja (grandson) and other respected Rajas' are displayed. The sponsors of this spectacular Museum is 'Educationist Dewan Talibur Raja Trust'.

Songs

These are some of the famous songs written by Hason Raja:

Baula Ke Banailo re (Who made the Baul Singer)
Loke Bole Bole Re (People Say)
Matiro Pinjiri (Cage made of Clay)
Nisha Lagilo (Addiction Started)
Sona Bondhe (Dear Beloved)

Translation of Loke Bole Bole Re

People say, they say I have no house built.
What house will I build,
a palace in the sky?

I'll build a proper house,
But how long will I stay for?
I look in the mirror,
I see gray hair that I have.

Thinking of this,
Hason Raja hasn’t built a house.
Where will Allah take and keep him,
For that reason he cries.

If Hason Raja knew,
how long he would live for,
then he would have built his house and rooms in many colours.

People say, they say I have no house built.
What house will I build,
A palace in the sky?

Shah Abdul Karim

Shah Abdul Karim is a Bangladeshi musician. His specialized field of music is Bengali Baul music. He lives in the district of Sunamganj. He was rewarded the Ekushey Padok in the year 2001 for his songs, also received Drouhee Kotha-shahitayk Abdur Rouf Choudhury Award in 2000.

He was born in 1916 in Ujandhal, Dirai, in Sunamganj. This is one of the remote village of Bangladesh, where Abdul Karim born. Growing up with poverty, he started expressing his thoughts and emotions from very early age. Ektara, an instrument of music being his medium to express his thoughts, villager’s heart melted with his melodic and soothing voice. With so many time devoted in singing, hardly he could make time to make his way to think about livelihood or any other job than entertaining people. But he was forced to earn living hardship by harvesting. But Music never left him even with so much obstacles and poverty. As the time goes by, and as he was maturing with age, he went on taking training of spiritual and baul music from Kamal Uddin, Shadhak Rashid Uddin, Shah Ibrahim Mastan Baksh. His versatility ranged from Baul song, Spiritual song to Bhatiali. He went on learning all the exclusive modules of Baul song afterwards along with Shariatti, Marfatti, Nabuot, Belaya. The various devout form of music. He was motivated by philosophy of renowned Lalan Shah, Panju Shah and Duddu Shah

Musical works

Baul Shah Abdul Karim has written and composed as many as 1500 songs. These songs are organized in six books, like: Aftab Sangeet, Gano Sangeet, Kalnir Dheu, Dholmela, Bhatir Chithi and Kalnir Kooley. Bangla Academy has translated ten of his songs into English language.

Shah Abdul Karim is the living legend of Baul songs. He is versatile genius has lived a very simple life. But with the emergence of Baul songs in Bangladesh he has been honored the way he should have been a long time ago.

Most famous songs
Kano piritee barailarey bondhu
Gari cholena cholena
Maya lagaise
Ami koolhara kolonkini
Agey ki shundor din kataitham
Ami tomar kaul-er gari
Shokhi kunjo shajao
Ailaye na
Boshonto Batashey

Sylhet is an important human habitation with district boundary of North-Eastern region of Bangladesh. About the origination of the name of Sylhet Many opinions are brought with practice. Among these the following opinions are mentionable.

In these area once there was abundance of rocks ( Shila). The hat or bazaar sat on these rocks. The name of Sylhet concerted gradually of the words ‘Shila’ and ‘Hat ’ as Shila-Hat > Shil-hot Shilhatta.

Then the king Gour Gabinda kept big stones or shills on the way of entrance of his capital to make blockade for Hazrat Shahajalal ® ordered “Shill hot” (move away the stones), at once the stones moved away . By this way the name of Sylhet is originated.

Guhak the king of Gour established a ‘Hat ’called ‘Shilhat’ in his capital after the name of his daughter Shila. In the long run this name is converted into ‘Srihatta’

Sri means beauty, charm and wealth. From the word hand of Sri or Srihatta the name of srihatta is produced.

It is mentioned that in the book of historical Albirouni the word “Shilhat” is noticed/introduced. At the time of Muslim region the name ‘Shilhat’ was in usage. The name ‘Srihatta region’ was noted in a copper plate founded in Pashcimbag (Westsid). During the age/region/period of British the name ‘Silhet’ was used to write on document first .Latter to make a different from ‘Silchar’ the word ‘Sylhet’ was introduced.

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